:root{--ink:#15191c;--ink2:#353e42;--muted:#59636a;--paper:#f6f5f1;--card:#fff;--line:#e3e0d7;--line2:#d4d0c4;--brand:#1f3a3d;--brand2:#2b5054;--brand3:#e8efee;--accent:#8a5a1f;--gold:#e0b25a;--ok:#2d6a38;--okbg:#e8f2e9;--warn:#7a4f00;--warnbg:#fbf1dc;--bad:#9b2c2c;--badbg:#f8e7e5;--link:#1a4f86;--r:12px;--sh:0 1px 2px rgba(20,30,30,.06),0 4px 14px rgba(20,30,30,.06);--max:1140px}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%;scroll-padding-top:16px}
body{margin:0;font:17px/1.62 ui-sans-serif,system-ui,-apple-system,"Segoe UI",Roboto,"Helvetica Neue",Arial,sans-serif;color:var(--ink);background:var(--paper);text-rendering:optimizeLegibility}
img{max-width:100%}
a{color:var(--link);text-underline-offset:3px;text-decoration-thickness:1px}
a:hover{color:#0f3460;text-decoration-thickness:2px}
:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--gold);outline-offset:2px;border-radius:3px}
.wrap{max-width:var(--max);margin:0 auto;padding:0 20px}
.narrow{max-width:780px}
.skip{position:absolute;left:-999px}.skip:focus{left:8px;top:8px;background:#fff;padding:10px 14px;z-index:9999;border-radius:8px}
/* header */
.top{background:var(--card);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);position:relative;z-index:1000}
.bar{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;min-height:62px}
.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;font-weight:780;font-size:1.06rem;letter-spacing:-.01em}
.brand svg{width:32px;height:32px;flex:none}
.brand small{display:block;font-weight:500;font-size:.72rem;color:var(--muted);letter-spacing:.02em;text-transform:uppercase;line-height:1.1}
.brand span{line-height:1.15}
.nav{display:flex;gap:2px;margin-left:auto;overflow-x:auto;scrollbar-width:none;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch}
.nav::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.nav a{color:var(--ink2);text-decoration:none;padding:9px 11px;border-radius:8px;font-size:.93rem;font-weight:560;white-space:nowrap}
.nav a:hover{background:var(--brand3);color:var(--brand)}
.nav a[aria-current]{background:var(--brand);color:#fff}
@media (max-width:900px){.bar{flex-wrap:wrap;padding-top:8px}.nav{margin:0 -20px;padding:0 14px 8px;width:calc(100% + 40px);mask-image:linear-gradient(90deg,#000 88%,transparent)}}
.notice{background:#efece4;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:.84rem;color:var(--ink2);padding:7px 0}
.notice strong{color:var(--ink)}
/* type */
main{padding-bottom:56px}
h1,h2,h3{letter-spacing:-.018em;line-height:1.2;color:var(--ink)}
h1{font-size:clamp(1.9rem,4.2vw,2.9rem);margin:.35em 0 .3em;font-weight:800}
h2{font-size:clamp(1.35rem,2.4vw,1.7rem);margin:2.1em 0 .6em;font-weight:760}
h3{font-size:1.08rem;margin:1.5em 0 .45em;font-weight:700}
p,ul,ol{margin:.6em 0 1em}
.lead{font-size:clamp(1.06rem,1.6vw,1.2rem);color:var(--ink2);max-width:62ch}
.small{font-size:.86rem;color:var(--muted)}
.eyebrow{font-size:.78rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent)}
.crumbs{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted);padding-top:18px}
.crumbs a{color:inherit}
.crumbs ol{list-style:none;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:4px;margin:0;padding:0}
.crumbs li+li:before{content:"›";margin-right:4px;opacity:.7}
/* chips (plain text, deliberately neutral) */
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px;margin:10px 0;padding:0;list-style:none}
.chip{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;border:1px solid var(--line2);background:var(--card);color:var(--ink2);border-radius:999px;padding:3px 11px;font-size:.84rem;font-weight:560;text-decoration:none;line-height:1.5}
a.chip:hover{border-color:var(--brand);color:var(--brand);background:var(--brand3)}
.chip.alt{background:transparent;border-style:dashed}
/* hero bands */
.band{background:var(--brand);color:#eef3f2;background-image:radial-gradient(circle at 85% -20%,rgba(255,255,255,.12),transparent 45%),repeating-linear-gradient(135deg,rgba(255,255,255,.035) 0 2px,transparent 2px 14px);padding-bottom:28px}
.band h1{color:#fff}
.band .lead{color:#dbe5e3}
.band .crumbs{color:#bccdca}
.band .chip{background:rgba(255,255,255,.08);border-color:rgba(255,255,255,.28);color:#fff}
.band a.chip:hover{background:rgba(255,255,255,.18);color:#fff;border-color:#fff}
.band a{color:#fff}
.facts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(150px,1fr));gap:10px;margin:18px 0 0;padding:0;list-style:none}
.facts li{background:rgba(255,255,255,.07);border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.16);border-radius:10px;padding:10px 14px}
.facts b{display:block;font-size:.74rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.07em;color:#b9cbc8;font-weight:650}
.facts span{font-size:1.02rem;font-weight:650;color:#fff}
/* layout */
.cols2{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 290px;gap:44px;align-items:start}
.side{position:sticky;top:18px;margin-top:28px}
.side .card{padding:16px 18px}
.side nav a{display:block;padding:6px 0;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink2);font-size:.94rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.side nav a:hover{color:var(--link)}
@media (max-width:980px){.cols2{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:0}.side{position:static;margin-top:20px}.side nav{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px}.side nav a{border:1px solid var(--line2);border-radius:999px;padding:7px 13px;background:var(--card)}}
.card{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);box-shadow:var(--sh)}
.box{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:6px 20px;margin:16px 0}
.btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:8px;min-height:44px;padding:10px 18px;border-radius:10px;background:var(--brand);color:#fff;text-decoration:none;font-weight:650;border:0;font:inherit;font-weight:650;cursor:pointer}
.btn:hover{background:var(--brand2);color:#fff}
.btn.ghost{background:transparent;color:var(--brand);border:1.5px solid var(--brand)}
.btn.ghost:hover{background:var(--brand3);color:var(--brand)}
.band .btn{background:#fff;color:var(--brand)}
.band .btn.ghost{background:transparent;color:#fff;border-color:rgba(255,255,255,.6)}
/* sections */
section{scroll-margin-top:12px}
.sec{padding-top:6px}
.sec>h2{display:flex;align-items:baseline;gap:10px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:26px;margin-top:34px}
/* photos */
.photo{margin:22px 0}
.photo img{width:100%;height:auto;display:block;border-radius:var(--r);background:#e9e6de}
figcaption{font-size:.86rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:8px}
.credit a{color:inherit}
/* places */
.places{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(260px,1fr));gap:10px}
.places li{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;padding:11px 14px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:2px}
.pn{font-weight:650;line-height:1.3}
.pd{color:var(--muted);font-size:.86rem}
.pd a{color:var(--muted)}
.tag{display:inline-block;font-size:.72rem;font-weight:700;border-radius:5px;padding:1px 7px;vertical-align:2px;margin-left:6px}
.tag.free{background:var(--okbg);color:var(--ok)}
.tag.est{background:#eef1f4;color:#3c4a57}
/* status boxes */
.sf{border-radius:10px;padding:14px 16px;border:1px solid;margin:12px 0}
.sf-yes{background:var(--okbg);border-color:#bcd8c0}
.sf-partial{background:var(--warnbg);border-color:#ead6a6}
.sf-no,.sf-unk{background:#f2f1ed;border-color:var(--line2)}
.alert{background:var(--warnbg);border:1px solid #ead6a6;border-radius:10px;padding:12px 16px;margin:10px 0}
.quote{border-left:3px solid var(--line2);padding:4px 0 4px 14px;color:var(--ink2);margin:10px 0}
/* tables */
.tbl{overflow-x:auto;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;background:var(--card);margin:12px 0}
table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;font-size:.93rem}
caption{text-align:left;font-weight:650;padding:10px 14px}
th,td{text-align:left;padding:9px 14px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}
th{background:#f3f2ee;font-size:.8rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.04em;color:var(--ink2)}
tr:last-child td{border-bottom:0}
td.sf-yes,td.sf-partial,td.sf-no{border:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
/* lists */
.stlist{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;columns:3 240px;column-gap:28px}
.stlist li{break-inside:avoid;padding:7px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.stlist a{font-weight:600;text-decoration:none}
.stlist a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.stlist .pd{display:block}
.letters{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:4px;margin:14px 0;padding:0;list-style:none}
.letters a{display:inline-flex;min-width:36px;min-height:36px;align-items:center;justify-content:center;border:1px solid var(--line2);border-radius:8px;background:var(--card);text-decoration:none;font-weight:650}
.route{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;position:relative}
.route li{position:relative;padding:10px 0 10px 34px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:4px 10px;align-items:baseline}
.route li:before{content:"";position:absolute;left:11px;top:0;bottom:0;width:3px;background:var(--line2)}
.route li:after{content:"";position:absolute;left:6px;top:17px;width:13px;height:13px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--card);border:3px solid var(--brand)}
.route li:first-child:before{top:20px}.route li:last-child:before{bottom:calc(100% - 20px)}
.route a.st{font-weight:650;text-decoration:none;font-size:1.02rem}
.route a.st:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.route .chip{font-size:.76rem;padding:1px 8px}
.cards{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:14px 0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(250px,1fr));gap:14px}
.cards a{display:block;height:100%;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:18px 20px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);box-shadow:var(--sh);transition:border-color .15s,transform .15s}
.cards a:hover{border-color:var(--brand);transform:translateY(-1px)}
.cards strong{display:block;font-size:1.06rem;margin-bottom:4px}
.cards span{color:var(--muted);font-size:.92rem}
.stats{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:22px 34px;margin:22px 0 0;padding:0;list-style:none}
.stats b{display:block;font-size:1.8rem;font-weight:800;color:#fff;letter-spacing:-.02em;line-height:1.1}
.stats span{font-size:.84rem;color:#c3d3d0}
.steps li{margin-bottom:.7em}
/* maps */
.maptools{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px;align-items:end;margin:18px 0 12px}
.maptools label{display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-size:.8rem;font-weight:650;color:var(--ink2);gap:4px;flex:1 1 220px}
input,select{font:inherit;min-height:46px;padding:9px 12px;border:1.5px solid var(--line2);border-radius:10px;background:#fff;color:var(--ink);width:100%}
input:focus,select:focus{border-color:var(--brand);outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 0 3px rgba(31,58,61,.18)}
.bigmap{height:min(72vh,680px);min-height:420px;border-radius:var(--r);border:1px solid var(--line);background:#e6e4dd;box-shadow:var(--sh)}
.minimap{height:400px;border-radius:var(--r);border:1px solid var(--line);background:#e6e4dd}
@media (max-width:600px){.bigmap{height:62vh;min-height:380px;border-radius:10px}.minimap{height:320px}body{font-size:16.5px}}
.leaflet-container{font:inherit}
.leaflet-popup-content{font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.45;margin:14px 16px}
.leaflet-popup-content-wrapper{border-radius:12px}
.pop b{font-size:1.05rem}.pop small{display:block;color:var(--muted)}
.pop p{margin:.5em 0}
.pop a.go{display:block;text-align:center;background:var(--brand);color:#fff!important;border-radius:9px;padding:11px 12px;text-decoration:none;font-weight:650;margin-top:8px}
.ent{background:#fff;border:3px solid var(--brand);border-radius:2px}
.leaflet-touch .leaflet-bar a{width:44px;height:44px;line-height:44px}
/* status page */
.status-list{list-style:none;padding:0}
.status-list li{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;padding:12px 16px;margin:8px 0}
.status-list .ln{font-weight:700}
.ok{color:var(--ok);font-weight:650}.bad{color:var(--bad);font-weight:650}
.live:empty{display:none}
/* footer */
.foot{background:#132527;color:#c8d4d2;font-size:.9rem;padding:42px 0 30px}
.foot a{color:#fff}
.fgrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr;gap:30px}
.foot h2{color:#fff;font-size:.82rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em;margin:0 0 10px;border:0;padding:0}
.foot ul{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}.foot li{padding:3px 0}
.foot .by{border-top:1px solid #2a4245;margin-top:26px;padding-top:16px;color:#9fb2af}
@media (max-width:760px){.fgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.fgrid>div:first-child{grid-column:1/-1}}
.err{text-align:center;padding:40px 0}
.err .big{font-size:5rem;font-weight:800;color:var(--brand);letter-spacing:-.04em;line-height:1}
@media print{.top,.notice,.foot,.side,.minimap,.bigmap{display:none}.band{background:none;color:#000}.band h1{color:#000}}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){*{transition:none!important}}

.hero{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px;align-items:center;padding-top:30px}
.hero h1{margin-top:0}
.heropic{display:none;margin:0}
.heropic img{border-radius:14px;box-shadow:0 18px 40px rgba(0,0,0,.35)}
.heropic figcaption{color:#bccdca;font-size:.78rem;margin-top:8px}
.heropic figcaption a{color:#fff}
@media(min-width:980px){.hero{grid-template-columns:1.05fr .95fr}.heropic{display:block}}